Philip Togni, Ca' Togni Black Muscat, 1997 GERMANYCOUNT326 Still young—this wine will improve

Still young—this wine will improve for another two decades

including 12% red wine) and Pinot Noir (18%)

a unique spice related to black pepper found in Sumatra

demanding rigorous selection — and even the top Pauillacs came out leaner than usual

Philip Togni, Ca' Togni Black Muscat, 1997 GERMANYCOUNT326 Still young—this wine will improveA genuine Napa curiosity: a sweet red dessert wine from Black Hamburg (a. k. a. Black Muscat), thought to be the only planting of the grape in the valley. Philip Togni farms it on a quarter acre at his estate near the top of Spring Mountain, the same legendary site behind his ageworthy Cabernet. The wine is grapey and perfumed in the Muscat way but built on a dark, red fruited frame, sweet without being cloying. A 1997 like this has had decades to